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Personal Finance

A Health Savings Account or HSA is a Great Financial Tool

I don’t have too many financial regrets, but one is that I did not not take advantage of a Health Savings Account or HSA earlier in my career. For most of my 20’s and early 30’s I blindly signed up for a traditional co-insurance health plan during open enrollment. These “Gold” level plans offered low deductibles, typically $1000, but with high premiums of between $700-$800 per month. The low deductible is good for keeping variable expenses low but the premiums over a full year add up to a significant expense.  When I look back at the amount of money the insurance paid out, compared to the premiums paid in I was wasting a lot of money!  These co-insurance plans are good for people with ongoing medical costs, planning a significant surgery or birth of a child, or anybody who does not have an emergency fund to cover an unexpected $10,000 medical bill.

I am very fortunate that me and my family are healthy with an emergency fund so the co-insurance model of low deductibles and high premiums does not make sense for us. This is where the Health Savings Account comes into play. The first thing to understand is that Health Savings Accounts are only available if you are on a high deductible health plan. These plans flip the model where your monthly premiums are lower in exchange for much higher deductibles and maximum out of pocket costs.

How the numbers break out

Our family’s high deductible  plan looks like this:

Annual premium: $5,976
Annual family deductible: $6,500
Annual family max out of pocket: $12,00

Compare the above with the low deductible plan:
Annual premium: $9,750
Annual family deductible: $1,000
Annual family max out of pocket: $5,000

As you can see, on the high deductible plan you trade about $4,000 in lower premiums for a $5,500 increase in the deductible and a $7,000 increase in the max out of pocket. By taking on some of the additional risk we are able to keep more money in our pocket.  If we stay relatively healthy this trade off will work out in our favor.

Combining the high deductible plan with an HSA

Once you are on a high deductible plan, you are eligible to participate in a Health Savings Account. The HSA allows you to set aside pre-tax earnings today for qualified medical expenses in the future. The maximum family contribution in 2020 is set at $7,100. In addition, most HSA’s will allow you to invest these funds to further grow your account. Does this mechanism sound familiar? Yes, essentially it acts just like a 401k but rather than helping to save for retirement it is helping to save for medical expenses. The tax benefit, combined with the power of compounding make this a very useful tool for financial planning. As we get older, medical expenses are foretasted to become a significant portion of our monthly expenses. Saving now for these expenses, can really help offset the burden of medical costs later in life.

In a practical sense, as you build funds in your HSA you now have funds to cover your high deductible and max out of pocket for a major medical event. In closing, if you are healthy with an emergency fund, take the premium savings of a high deductible plan and invest them in a Health Savings Account to maximize the benefit of tax savings and compounding. You can read more on this topic at healthcare.gov

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Personal Finance

My First Electric Car the 2013 Nissan Leaf

On December 24, 2013 I became the proud owner of a 2013 Nissan Leaf! I never thought I would own an electric car and even more so a leased one!  With all that said,  here is how I ended up buying one.  We are expecting our first child in January. I currently drive a 2008 BMW 335i coupe while she drives a 2004 Subaru Impreza wagon. The plan was I was going to trade/sell my BMW as we needed 4 doors and she was going to get a used BMW X3, Honda RDX, Volvo XC60, or an Audi Q5 crossover while I would drive her Subaru for a few years. We started test driving some cars this week but had not settled on anything yet.

Slickdeals.net Posts about the “Free Leaf” Deal

I had heard Nissan was offering some good deals but had never considered it until this week when I saw this post on Slickdeals.net:

Georgia Residents: Make Money and Lease a new 2013 Nissan LEAF S for $235/mo with VPP or $259 without VPP
While there are other posts on this, this deal is the best.

$235/mo package with $0 down on a 2013 Nissan LEAF S for two years.
The numbers work out so that you get a new (lease) car and get paid money to drive it, because the total lease payments get offset by a $5,000 Georgia state tax credit and gas savings.

The Math:
Total Payments: $5,640 (or $235 x 24 months)
State Income Tax Credit: $5,000 (or minimum(20% MSRP, $5k) = min(20% of 29k, $5k) = min($6k, $5k))
Gas Savings: $2,400 (YMMV but for me, it’s at least $100/mo based on $125/mo average gas cost minus added $25/mo electricity bill)
——————————-
Total Profit = $2,400 + $5,000 – $5,640 = $1,760

Additional Details
12,000 miles/yr
Does not include the charger package
No ad valorem tax (included in lease payments/price)
Federal tax credit is already baked into the price
No oil changes necessary
YMMV on what maintenance is included in lease – mine came with at least the first 7,500 mi tune up free, but others have found out that additional services cost about $50 for rotations and battery/system tests. Make sure to discuss this with your dealer before signing.
$395 disposition fee at end of lease if you choose to not buy
Contact GA Power (link [georgiapower.com]) about EV plans where evening charging of the LEAF is at a lower rate than daytime usage

Now my curiosity was peaked!  Was this really legitimate? After doing some more searching and talking to a few people I realized how crazy this was.  I would rather drive a brand new Leaf than the Impreza and if the state of Georgia is willing to basically pay me for the privilege I said to Crystal let’s do it!.

Purchasing the Nissan Leaf

After seeing positive comments on Autonation Nissan in Lithia Springs we headed that way as it is only 6 miles from us. When we got there they had a lot of Leafs on the lot even though they said they sold 13 just yesterday! We found a base S with the charger package in black and took it for a quick test drive. I was VERY impressed and was immediately sold! I had never driven an electric car but I loved how smooth it was.

From the Slickdeals thread, I knew that $259 (non VPP) without the charger package was my target. First offer was $279 with no charger package and $279 down. I decided that I wanted the quick charger so they came back with $279 with charger and $279 down, third and final offer was $279 with charger and $0 down. We then decided to have them appraise the Impreza for a trade and they gave me $3,500 which was a good offer for a 10 year old Subaru with almost 100k miles. So that brought my total lease payment down to $131 a month! Factor in the $150 a month I currently spend on gas and the math looks like: $6,696 payments + $395 turn in fee – $5000 GA tax credit – ~$2,400 in gas savings = $-391. Not as good as VPP but still a nice deal!

I love the Leaf

After driving the leaf for two years I became addicted to how quiet and smooth they are.  For stop and go Atlanta traffic it is a perfect commuter car. I had charging stations available at work but never used them unless I was needing to make an airport run.  The battery did degrade a little, and the range of only 80 miles meant you needed to plan some longer excursions.  The only maintenance that was required in two years was new front tires!  Literally nothing else.  Compare that to my BMW, which was in the shop almost every other month for something.

When it came time to turn in my lease I decided that I wanted to stay electric and I upgraded to a 2013 Tesla Model S CPO

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Personal Finance

Foundation #10: To be successful you and your partner must agree on these principles

I started writing the 10 Foundations of Personal Finance last year and  I am finally getting around to posting the final one! 

If you have a spouse, partner, or significant other you have to be aligned on the first 9 foundations if you are going to be successful.  Money disagreements are one of the biggest reasons for divorce and separation today.  I have seen so many relationships where you have a saver and spender getting into constant disagreements over money. 

Now I am not talking about having perfect alignment 100% of the time. There is always going to me some variances, but the key is that you share the same core beliefs on money and that you are aligned on your long term financial goals and the path to achieve them.

Previous: Foundation #9: Your retirement is YOUR responsibility 

 

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Personal Finance

Mint.com Update – Super Simple Money Management

I wrote about Mint.com back in January and really liked what they had to offer. One of my biggest complaints was the lack of custom categories. Well they have fixed that now and you can easily add custom categories.

They have also added a very straightforward budgeting section that is so easy to use that you have no excuse for not having a budget! Enter in your budget numbers and then sit back and watch Mint allocate your spending over the month against your budget. This is a great option for people who don’t enjoy spending time in Excel.

In addition to the budgeting feature, they have added a very interesting trending tool.  Not only does it let you look at your spending over time but you can compare your spending to others in your city or state.  This is a really neat feature that can let you compare your spending habits to others and see where you stand.

Although these are both great features the real power of Mint still lies in its ability to categorize all your transactions.  As long as the majority of your spending is on a debit or credit card you can get a great view of your finances with almost no effort.  If you have not tried mint sign up at mint.com.

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Personal Finance

Take Back Your Mailbox From Junk Mail!

After a particularly bad junk mail day last week I decided I had had enough.  It was time to take back my mailbox from the unscrupulous marketers. It would not be so bad if it were just a couple things a week but I estimate we get 50 pieces of junk mail a week! Here is what I am doing:

  1. Converted as many bills as possible to online payments.  Most companies will stop sending you a paper bill if you are on automatic withdrawals. The only bill I actually have to still open is the water bill. At least I can pay it with a credit card!  Everything else is on cruise control.
  2. Went “paperless” with all my account statements that offer it.  Last week I found a few more of my accounts that do!
  3. Opted out of all credit card offers for all family members:
    http://www.optoutprescreen.com
  4. Signed up for the Direct Marketing Association’s DMAChoice to opt out of all member marketing: http://www.dmachoice.org
  5. Signed up for an account at ProQuo and walked through all the steps to opt out.
    http://www.proquo.com/
  6. For companies not covered by the above, I started contacting them directly to be removed.
  7. If the junk mail has a postage paid business reply envelope I mail the offer back with “Remove From List” written in big black letters! If they are going to send me junk at least make them pay for it!
  8. I just found this tip which might eliminate the need for #7:From: http://www.obviously.com/junkmail/
    First class mail: Cross out the address and bar code, circle the first class postage and write “refused: return to sender”. Drop in any mail box, it will be returned to the sender.
    Bulk mail: The post office throws away bulk mail it can’t deliver, so returning it does no good. Bulk mail is the hardest to deal with because the USPS actively provides addresses, support and encouragement to mailers. However, if “address correction requested” is written on the label: circle “address correction requested” and treat like first class mail.

Hopefully these steps will have an impact.  In addition to the environmental benefits, doing this will also help your finances. If you don’t get the shiny new catalogs you won’t be tempted to buy anything!

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Personal Finance

Foundation #9: Your retirement is YOUR responsibility

I am counting on absolutely nothing from the federal government during retirement. If they figure out how to save social security it will be a nice bonus but until then I am not counting on it! 🙂

This post had to follow foundation #8 because it is one of the great examples where the numbers are dead simple but behavior always gets in the way. Saving for your retirement is really very simple you need to just DO IT! I recommend people put 20% away for retirement and here is how I suggest you do it

Step 1: If you have a 401k availiable, contribute up to your company match.

Step 2: Max out your Roth IRA, which is $5k in 2008.

Step 3: Increase your 401k contribution so that the total of all 3 steps equals 20% of your total income. The max 401k contribution for 2008 is ($15,500).

So let’s have a little fun and play with some numbers to see what kind of nest egg you can have with 3 simple steps:
Start contributing: 25
Single Income 50K:
401K 3% = $1500 + $1500 company match
Max Single Roth: $5k
Additional 401k %: 4% / $2,000
Yearly Retirement Savings: 20% / $10,000
40 years @ 10% = 5.3 Million!

Start contributing: 25
Household income 100K:
401K 3% = $3000 + $3000 company match
Max 2 Roth’s: $10k
Additional 401k %: 4%
Yearly Retirement Savings: 20% or $20k
If you start this at 25 and grow it 40 years @ 10% = 10.6 Million!

Start contributing: 30
Household income 150K:
401K 3% = $4500 + $4500 company match
Max 2 Roth’s: $10k
Additional 401k %: 7% ($11k)
Yearly Retirement Savings: 20% or $30k
If you start this at 30 and grow it 35 years @ 10% = 9.5 Million!

Notice how the 100k income that starts 5 years earlier will outrun the $150k income! Starting earlier is key but either way you will have 10 Million! And the real kicker – half of that is not taxable as a reult of the Roth contribution. I did not start maxing out my 401k and Roth IRA until a few years ago and it was one of the few financial regrets I have!

Let’s take a different angle. Maybe you don’t have access to a 401k. As long as you make less than $99k (single ) $156k (married) you can contribut to the Roth IRA. If you did just that, the numbers would look like this:

Start contributing: 25
Single Income 50K:
Max Single Roth: $5k
40 years @ 10% = 2.6 Million!

With just the Roth you can have $2.6 million at retirement that is TAX FREE! A 4% draw on $2.6 million equals $100k a year TAX FREE! So the bottom line in all this: you need to find $416 in your monthly budget to max out your Roth IRA and fund your retirement. This is right around the average car payment in America!

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Personal Finance

Foundation #8: 80% of personal finance is behavior 20% is knowledge and the numbers

All the personal finace foundations build on each other – #8 continues with the concept that personal finance is much more about behavior than it is about the numbers. Figuring out the basic principles that put you on the right path to financial success is the easy part! It is following through with the behaviors and habits that is the hard part. Most people know that contributing to a 401k is a good idea but so many don’t follow through with the behavior to make it happen. How many people this year blew right past April 15th and did not fund their 2007 Roth IRA? How many people spend more than they make? If I had to pick who was to be better off financially: a CPA with bad financial habits and a recent college grad with good financial habits I am always going to pick the recent college grad! You can’t make up for bad habits with better financial knowledge.

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Personal Finance

Foundation #7: Live Almost Debt Free

We have had a little bit of a hiatus on the 10 foundations of personal finance that I started writing about last year but I wanted to finish it off. So here is #7!

I started listening to Dave Ramsey in 2006 but followed many of his principles before I had ever heard of him or the daily radio show. Dave’s view of debt is spot on: You will never find financial freedom or success if you continue to have “payments”. Credit is so easy to come by today, (although it has tightened up recently) that it is easy to pile up all kinds of stuff on credit from cars to clothes to even air conditioners (heard that on the radio today!)

Like Dave Ramsey, I subscribe to there being only one kind of debt that is part of a solid financial plan: mortgage debt. This is the “almost” part of living debt free. With that said, you need to be smart about your mortgage debt. The banks will approve you for well over what you can afford. Remember, the banks are looking to maximize profit not look out for your best interests. It takes a lot of discipline to not spend what the bank will approve you for but in the long run it is one of the most important financial decisions you can make. In my view your mortgage should not exceed 2.5 times your house hold income. Why does that number work?

Household income: $50k
Purchase Price: $150k
Downpayment: $25k
Mortgage: $125k
15 year Mortgage Payment + Taxes ($1250) & Insurance ($500) @ 6% ~ $1200 month
Monthly Take home ~$2900
Housing to Income ratio 40%.

You might balk at the 15 year mortgage but I can’t emphasize how important that is. Forget the interest savings for a minute, the number one reason to go with a 15 year mortgage is it will force you to keep your housing purchase within your means! I have had a mortgage for 5 years now on two different houses and both have been 15 year notes. If you start out with a 15 you will never miss the 30 🙂

The 40% housing to income is on the high side but if you have yourself on a budget you should be able to swing that. Dave Ramsey recommends 25% and that should be the goal but up to 40% is ok with a household income of $50k

If you double the numbers they look like this:

Household income: $100k
Purchase Price: $250k
Downpayment: $50k
Mortgage: $200k
15 year Mortgage Payment + Taxes ($2500) & Insurance ($1000) @ 6% ~ $2000 month
Monthly Take home ~$5400
Housing to Income ratio 35%.

In addition to the 2.5 times rule I also like to use the rule that your down payment should be half of your household income. Again, it forces you to make a housing purchase you can afford.

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Personal Finance

Craigslist Rocks!

I started using Craigslist when I was in Burlington but had limited success in buying/selling as the community was pretty small. You had a lot of college students using it so the apartment and furniture threads were pretty active but that was about it.

When I moved to Atlanta I quickly realized that the size of the Craigslist community here is HUGE. I have had great success in selling stuff on the Atlanta Craiglsist board and have actually found myself using it a lot more that Ebay. There is something to be said for how simple they keep things. It is easy to post, does not cost anything, no shipping to deal with, and people pay you in cash! Compare that with the hassles of Ebay and you can quickly see why Craigslist has taken off. I still use Ebay for niche items that don’t have mass market appeal but for most items it’s Craiglist!

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Personal Finance

Manage your Money with Mint.com

Mint.com Logo

Following up on my WaMu review I wanted to take a minute and review a new money management tool called Mint.com. Mint is an account aggregation service. The concept of financial account aggregation is not a new concept as Yodlee has been offering this service to banks for a number of years. As a basic concept Mint.com is not all that different. They even use the Yodlee service to run the back end of their application.

What makes Mint.com interesting is the customer experience they deliver. I do user experience for a living and can tell Mint has invested heavily in this area. I signed up for an account and was up and running in less than 5 minutes. From sign up to seeing 7 accounts aggregated in one screen took 5 minutes! Now granted, I am an advanced user who already had all my online accounts setup, but still 5 minutes is impressive. I do need to run this through the “Mom” test and see how long it would take my mom to go through and sign up.

Mint’s business model is an interesting one: they sell space to financial institutions that make offers to help you save money. They know the interest rate on your accounts and will make offers from competing banks that offer you a lower interest rate. Since I carry no consumer debt and already have a high yield savings account this feature has no value to me but for some it might be useful. I just hope they can make this model profitable.

Right now Mint only has bank accounts and credit cards included in the aggregation service but they claim to be adding mortgages and others soons. Brokerages and mortgaes would be a great addition!

Categorization is a key concept in all money management software. You want to be able to quickly see at the end of the month where all your money went. They have a super simple interface for categorizing transactions and even putting rules in place so that the same transaction next time is automatically categorized. However, they have one fundamental flaw that really reduces the usefulness of mint: you can’t create custom categories! Hopefully they will add this soon, because after playing with my accounts for 10 minutes I quickly ran into problems with the pre set categories.

Mint also has a simple budgeting system where you can set your budget each month and then track your spending against it. I do my simple budgeting in Excel but I will have to see how usefull this aspect of the service is.

Overall I am impressed so far. I think with a few changes this will really become a great little web app for managing your money.